Process for the production of multi-colored single face ware

ABSTRACT

A method for the production of a multi-colored type of single face ware utilizing a Raschel type warp knitting machine fitted with a jacquard attachment. Thread utilization by the guidelines is equalized by causing certain jacquard guide bars, namely these laying the threads on the technical back of the ware, to perform a lap additional to that performed by the remaining jacquard bars corresponding in thread utilization to the thread utilization of the guide bar laying the ground structure of the ware in the same course.

ilriite States Eatent [191 Wiilrens [451 Sept. 10,1974

1 1 PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF MULTi-COLORED SINGLE FACE WARE [75] Inventor: Christian Peter Wilkens, Obertshausen, Germany [73] Assignee: Karl Mayer Textilmasschindnfabrik Gmbl-l, Obertshausen, Germany [22] Filed: Apr. 2, 1973 [21] Appl. No.: 347,255

[52] US. Cl. 66/195, 66/84 [51] int. C1 D04b 21/00 [58] Field of Search 66/86, 190-195 [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,168,821 2/1965 Zwingenberger 66/84 FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 55,821 3/1891 Germany 66/84 190,619 8/1956 Austria 66/84 Primary Examiner-Ronald Feldbaum Attorney, Agent, or Firm-Omri M. Behr 57 I ABSTRACT A method for the production of a multi-colored type of single face ware utilizing a Raschel type warp knitting machine fitted with a jacquard attachment. Thread utilization by the guidelines isequalized by causing certain jacquard guide bars, namely these laying the threads on the technical back of the ware, to perform a lap additional to that performed by the re maining jacquard bars corresponding in thread utilization to the thread utilization of the guide bar laying the ground structure of the ware in the same course.

5 Claims, 10 Drawing Figures PATEN'IEDSEPI m 3334.193

SHEET h BF 6 Course Course Course Course Cours 4 I Course 2 Course [(C1) (b) (c) (d (e) (f) (on) (bb) (cc) (dd) (ee) (m PAIENIEBSEH I M I 3.834.193

SHEU 58F 6 L L Jclcq.bar Drapperbclr L Fig.6

L Jccquard bar Drapperbclr Fig. 7

PATENIEU 1 1 3,834,193

SHEEI 5 BF 6 PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF MULTI-COLOREI) SINGLE FACE WARE DESCRIPTION OF THE PRIOR ART Heretofor it has been possible to produce single face jacquard goods utilizing at least one jacquard guide bar which is provided behind the guide bars producing the basic fabric. Thus, for example, there may be utilized as the basic pattern, an open or closed chain construction which hold firmly the threads made by the rearwardly located jacquard guidebars. Threads, guided by means of a jacquard arrangement, are introduced through underlaps of predeterminable size. There are provided three possibilities of proceeding, namely:

First, a single underlap under a single needle, which however leads to gaps in the goods.

Secondly, the lapping can be under two needles which provides the connection between wales and,

Thirdly, there may be lapping under three needles which equally provides connection between the wales but gives rise to a particularly dense thread pattern in the goods.

In other heretofore known procedures, the jacquard guide bars may be provided in front of the guide bars forming the ground structure. By this means the jacquard controlled threads provide an overlap which, by utilizing a fall plate can be converted into tuck loops. By the provision of the jacquard guide bar in front of the guide bars forming the ground structure thread, floating arises, which in turn provides the pattern effect. The forwardly placed jacquard guide bars provide regularly overlappings either on the same or on neighboring latch needles. A very dense pattern effect may thus be achieved either by continuously laying the jacquard threads in the same latch needle in each course, or by laying the thread not only in the same latch needle, but also in the next adjacent latch needle to the right but also to the next but one latch needle to the left. These floating threads give rise to a structural patterning.

As a third mode known to the prior art, there may be mentioned a means of production of jacquard goods utilizing two jacquard guide bars without the additional aid of other guide bars forming the ground structure. In this procedure certain conditions must be fulfilled; namely, both jacquard bars must provide overlaps wherein each latch needle receives at least one overlap and thus forms at least one single threaded stitch.

Utilizing the jacquard arrangement it is possible that both jacquard guide bars provide no connection between two neighboring wales whereby breaks in the goods occur.

Yet another modification is possible. In this mode of operation, one of the jacquard guide bars provides the aforementioned connection between the wales, whereas the other guide bar is influenced by the jacquard arrangement in such a way that it continuously performs overlaps on the same needle, whereby there are provided semitransparent pattern formations.

In all of the foregoing procedures only breaks in the goods, or more or less dense pattern surfaces can be provided. In the procedures known to the prior art it is not possible to provide a substantially dense multicolored patterning. It was heretofore only deemed possible to provide such goods where two jacquard bars are utilized, wherein the single threads are fed from separate cones and wherein the thread consumption at the change of pattern is differentiable.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In the process of the present invention there are employed at least two guide bars, one of said guide bars being the jacquard guide bar influenced by the jacquard dropper bar; and at least one guide barfunctioning to lay the ground structure of the ware.

In accordance with the invention, the jacquard threads on the technical back side of the goods undergo a lap in addition to the laps laid by the other jacquard threads, which corresponds in thread utilization to that of the ground threads in the same course. In particular, utilizing at least one jacquard bar in sequential courses there are first provided at least two weft laps and then at least one misslap and one stitch loop. It is thus possible, when changing the color or pattern to provide for substantially the same amount of thread consumption in the various colors, so that not only the ends forming the basic fabric, as is usual, but also the jacquard threads, may be dispensed from sectional beams.

This equalization of thread consumption from the sectional beam is far more economical of factory floor space than the otherwise required racks having individual cones.

Basically only two guide bars are necessary of which the forwardly located normal guide bar 61 (L1) carries the first color 62 and the rearwardly located jacquard controlled bar 51 (L2) carries the second color 52. Included within the scope of the invention is the utilization of additional guide bars (L3). For example, an additional guide bar 51 (L3) may be utilized to provide lay-ins with thread 82 under two needles, or multineedled underlappings, which will occur in particular where goods of higher stability specifications are required.

In a particular modification of the procedure of the present invention, it is desirable that the overlaps of the jacquard bars are arranged to run in opposition to the overlaps of the normal guide bars in the same course, which gives rise to thread use equalization.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 shows a partial perspective view of the jacquard head and certain jacquard guide bars, illustrating one jacquard dropper bar in the influencing position and one jacquard bar in the non-influencing position.

FIG. 2 is a side elevational view of a portion of the device used to carry out the process of the present invention, showing the latch needle, two guide bars, a jacquard-influenced guide bar and a jacquard dropper bar.

FIG. 3 is a modification of the portion of the device shown in FIG. 2 comprising additionally a further jacquard-influenced guide bar and jacquard dropper bar.

FIG. 4 is a side elevational view of a portion of a se ries of jacquard guide bars showing the dropper bars in the non-influencing position.

FIG. 5 corresponds to FIG. 4 showing one dropper bar in the influencing position.

FIG. 6 is a chain pattern table for a guide bar, a jacquard guide bar, a dropper bar, and a secondguide bar.

FIG. 7 is the lapping diagram corresponding to the chain link sequence of FIG. 6.

FIG. 8 is the actual pattern described in seven successive courses by the first guide bar and the jacquard influenced guide bar acting under the influence of the dropper bar.

FIG. 9 is a diagram showing the pattern produced on ware corresponding to FIG. 7.

FIG. 10 is an alternate series of lapping diagrams for a first guide bar (L1) and a second guide bar (L3). I

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The process of the present invention is carried out utilizing a conventional Raschel warp knitting machine equipped with at least one jacquard device activating one set of dropper bars which in turn influence one set of jacquard guide bars together with a set of ordinary guide bars. In order to produce a stronger material there may be utilized a second set of ordinary guide bars as. illustrated in FIG. 2. In this embodiment guide bar sets 61 and 81 may carry the same color, ie threads 62 and 82 respectively, or if desired different colors, and jacquard guide bar 51 always carries a different color from guide bars 61, namely threads 52. Where it is desired to produce three colored left-right ware, there is utilized a further set of jacquard-influenced guide bars 351, which carries threads 352 influenced by dropper bars 371 as illustrated in FIG. 3. It should be understood that the invention is no way limited by the number of guide bars utilized.

In the production of bi-colored single face ware in the embodiment illustrated by utilization of the equipment shown in FIG. 2, there are provided guide bars 61 and 81 generally referred to as the first guide bars (L1) and the second guide bars (L3)where the L1, L3 etc. designations refer to the schematically depicted movements of the corresponding bars, as indicated in FIG. 7 through 10 herein. There are also provided jacquard guide bars 51. Each of these series of guide bars are imbedded in a bed. Only the bed 91 for bars 51 is shown in FIG. 1. The bed 91 is connected to control rod 42 which contacts chain pattern wheel 32 in the conventional manner. The beds bearing the L2 and L3 guide bars are similarly controlled in a similar conventional manner. There is further provided a jacquard head 10 which is connected toa series of harness cords, of which two cords 21 and 121 are illustrated. Cords 21 and 121 are connected to dropper bars 71 and 171 respectively. All the dropper bars 71 are slidably mounted in bed 93 which is connected to control rod 43, which in turn is in constant and conventional contact with pattern wheel 33.

Thus bed 91 bearing guide bars 51 will move past the needles in the conventional manner under the activation of pattern wheel 32. Similarly, bed 93 bearing dropper bars 71 will similarly move past the needles in the conventional manner under the activation of pattern wheel 33. Clearly, unless the jacquard arrangement causes any of the dropper bars to drop this motion will have no effect upon the knitting process.

When the jacquard arrangement causes, say, jacquard bar 171 to drop it will be initially located between protrusions 53 on adjacent guide bars 51 and 151. Two alternate effects are then possible. If bed 93 moves to say, the right, and bed 91 is stationary, bar 171 causes guide bar 151 to move next to bar 51 (see FIG. 5) with the result that the threads on these adjacent guide bars are knitted on the same needle. Similarly, if bed 93 is stationary and bed 91 moves to the left, the same effect is achieved. It will be clear to those skilled in the art that the number of guide bars thus influenced may be controlled by the jacquard head. Furthermore, pattern wheels 33 and 32 may cause either dropper bar bed 93 or jacquard guide bar bed 91, or both together, to move in the same or mutually opposite directions.

It should be noted that while several different patterns are available for guide bars LI- and also guide bars L3 when utilized, the jacquard-influenced laps in the process of the present invention are always the same.

In a particular embodiment of the present invention, as illustrated particularly by FIGS. 6 through 8, there are utilized three guide bars. The L1 guide bars corresponding to bars 61 carry threads of a first color, for laying in the basic construction. Several constructions may be utilized. For example, chain lap, l and l, 2 and l, 3 and I, 4 and 1 lap, and the like. However, in this exemplification chain lap has been chosen.

The jacquard guide bar L2 (51) carries the threads 52 of a second color for the jacquard lapping which is influenced by the dropper bar through the jacquard arrangement.

The guide bar L3 (81) in the example, again carries threads 82 of the first color to provide the weft lapping preferably under two needles.

The chain link sequence (of FIG. 6) for the example provided may be summarized as follows:

L2: Jacquard guide bar: 0-0/00/2-2//2-2/22/O0// dropper bar for jacquard guide bar: 00/22/44/- /24 (overlap)/44/22 L3: 4-4/4-4/4-0/l0-0/0-0/0-4/l It will be clear from the foregoing that six chain links are required per course in the foregoing example.

One works with at least two color groups. The color distribution with respect to the guide bars has already been discussed. The purpose is to provide a basic thread direction preferably running in opposition to the jacquard overlap which permits the jacquard, that is to say, the second color, to appear over the entire breadth of the goods.

In the formation of a pattern motif the unused color, that is to say, the second color, is covered between the designs by the basic pattern formed by the first color.

The dropper bar acts upon the jacquard guide bar in the following manner. Where there are provided two courses with misslap and stitch loop or a group of such courses having two courses with underlappings it is followed with a group of such courses. Between the pattern motifs the jacquard arrangement will only influence the jacquard guide bar for the purpose of underlapping under two needles, that is to say, in the intervening courses it will be out of action. By this means the in-lay producing guide bar L3 and the stitch producing guide bar Ll will cover the jacquard threads of the second color and will compensate for the thread amounts utilized during the stitch formation in the production of the design pattern. I

By moving the setting of the jacquard control card by one course a reversal oocurs and thus provides the negative of the pattern.

FIG. 8 shows, between courses 4 and 6, the reversal of the jacquard pattern which is illustrated in FIG. '9. Thus. the pattern laid down by bar L2 utilizing thread 5 2 becomes that laid down by bar Ll utilizing thread 82. It should be noted that due to the complexity of the motions involved the chain link sequences of 'FIG. 6, and the lapping diagram of FIG. 7 show the appropriate motions associated with the bars themselves rather than the composite motion achieved when the dropper bar influences the jacquard bar as described hereinabove.

As previously stated more than one jacquard system may be employed if two colors should undergo the jacquard sequence. However, in this case the jacquard sequence for the second jacquard guide bars is the same as the jacquard sequence for the first jacquard guide bars. Similarly, utilizing one or utilizing two jacquard guide bars a second (uninfluenced) guide bar 81 (corresponding to L3) may be utilized. FIG. 10 illustrates some lapping sequences for L1 and L3 bars. These sequences should be considered as merely illustrative and not limiting. Thus, lap sequences (a) thru (j) are suitable for the L1 bar and lap sequences (aa) thru (ff) are suitable for the L3 bar.

I claim:

1. A process for the production of multicolored sin-.

gle face ware on a warp knitting machine of the type including a jacquard arrangement, a series of dropper bars connected to said jacquard arrangement, at least two sets of guide bars, one of said sets of guide bars being designated jacquard guide bars, said jacquard guide bars being located within the device so that upon activation of said jacquard arrangement said dropper bars will displace those jacquard guide bars adjacent thereto, at least one set of guide bars for laying the ground structure of said ware; thread of a first color passing through the jacquard guide bars and thread of a second color passing through the other guide bars; said process comprising: causing the jacquard guide bars laying the threads on the technical left of said ware to perform a lap additional to the laps laid by the other jacquard guide bars corresponding in thread utilization to the thread utilization of the guide bar laying the ground structure of said ware in the same course.

2. A process according to claim .1 comprising utilizing at least one jacquard guide bar in sequential courses to provide in alternation first, at least two in-lay laps followed by at least one misslap and at least one stitch loop for each of said two in-lay laps.

3. A process according to claim 1 comprising causing the overlap path of the jacquard guide bar to run in opposition to the direction of the path of the guide bar forming the ground structure in the same course.

4. Single face warp knitted goods containing a multicolored jacquard pattern characterized thereby that in the sequential courses alternately at least one jacquard misslap and one jacquard stitch loop are provided on the technical front side of the goods and at least two jacquard in-lay laps are provided on the technical back side of the goods.

5. Warp knitted goods in accordance with claim 4 characterized thereby that the overlapping of the jacquard threads is provided to run in the opposite direction from the overlaps of the loop forming threads in the same course. 

1. A process for the production of multicolored single face ware on a warp knitting machine of the type including a jacquard arrangement, a series of dropper bars connected to said jacquard arrangement, at least two sets of guide bars, one of said sets of guide bars being designated jacquard guide bars, said jacquard guide bars being located within the device so that upon activation of said jacquard arrangement said dropper bars will displace those jacquard guide bars adjacent thereto, at least one set of guide bars for laying the ground structure of said ware; thread of a first Color passing through the jacquard guide bars and thread of a second color passing through the other guide bars; said process comprising: causing the jacquard guide bars laying the threads on the technical left of said ware to perform a lap additional to the laps laid by the other jacquard guide bars corresponding in thread utilization to the thread utilization of the guide bar laying the ground structure of said ware in the same course.
 2. A process according to claim 1 comprising utilizing at least one jacquard guide bar in sequential courses to provide in alternation first, at least two in-lay laps followed by at least one misslap and at least one stitch loop for each of said two in-lay laps.
 3. A process according to claim 1 comprising causing the overlap path of the jacquard guide bar to run in opposition to the direction of the path of the guide bar forming the ground structure in the same course.
 4. Single face warp knitted goods containing a multi-colored jacquard pattern characterized thereby that in the sequential courses alternately at least one jacquard misslap and one jacquard stitch loop are provided on the technical front side of the goods and at least two jacquard in-lay laps are provided on the technical back side of the goods.
 5. Warp knitted goods in accordance with claim 4 characterized thereby that the overlapping of the jacquard threads is provided to run in the opposite direction from the overlaps of the loop forming threads in the same course. 